INTRODUCTION
The colder weather is well upon us and we rely heavily on our heating
systems to keep our abodes toasty warm. With shock and horror,
you have just opened your most recent energy bill. Is there any
way to keep home heating costs in control? You could opt for better
quality replacement windows, but this tends to be a major expense,
with a relatively poor return from a resale perspective. Perhaps
the most immediate and cost effective method is by adding insulation
to your home.
The good news is that by increasing the R-Value (discussed below),
you will also reduce your cooling costs in the summer. Overall,
your home will be more comfortable.
WHAT IS INSULATION1?
Insulation is a material that resists the transference of heat,
generally by taking advantage of air pockets.
Were you aware that the insulation value of a window is not necessarily
in the glass itself, but in the air space between the panes of
glass?
Since the insulation value is created generally through a series
of air pockets, it makes sense that older insulation, once compressed,
will be less effective over time.
The most common type of insulation in Southern Ontario is fiberglass
insulation. Some builders use cellulose insulation (paper based).
This material is installed during the construction stage of new
homes. Furthermore, it is easily added as an "after market" product
on established and older homes. The installation of aftermarket
insulation is either blown in (also known as "loose fill") or
batts (sold in a roll form).
Most heat loss occurs in the attic and basement areas. Surprisingly,
heat loss in wall is less of an issue. On that note, it is very
difficult to enhance the insulation value of walls without removing
the existing plaster or drywall.
Retrofitting insulation into existing walls & attics (i.e. blown-in
cellulose, fiberglass, or foam) can allow you to enjoy 20 - 30%
savings on your energy bills2.
An additional benefit of insulation is that it has effective noise
controlling properties.
Fiberglass insulation is available in R levels from R-12 to R-40.
The R-Value is a measurement of heat resistance. The higher the
R-Value, the better. Fiberglass batt insulation has an R-Value
of 3.2 per inch for new insulation and 2.6 for older insulation.
Other types of insulation may be more efficient per inch; however,
fiberglass batt & blown-in insulation tend to be extremely easy
to install in existing dwellings.
WHAT IS UFFI3?
UFFI (i.e. Urea Formaldehyde Foam Insulation) is no longer sold
in Canada and was banned in 1980. UFFI was developed in Europe
in the 1950's as a method of insulating hard to reach areas of
walls. In Canada, it was popularly installed in the 1970's with
most installations occurring between 1975 and 1978. UFFI was commonly
injected from the exterior of a home, into the interior wall cavities.
During that period, the Canadian government offered financial
incentives to install the product. UFFI is still in use in Europe
where it was never banned.
One of the methods of visually analyzing whether a home has UFFI
installed is to scan the exterior of the structure to look for
consistent patterns of patched circular holes. This should then
be crosschecked in the basement by looking between the floor joists
against the foundation walls for traces of the foam material.
Also, one of the tale tell signs of UFFI in older homes is the
presence of an air exchanger in the basement.
The concern over UFFI had less to do with the product itself,
but rather the installation of the mixture. UFFI was not a "do-it-yourself"
installation product. The quality of installation varied according
to the contractor used.
Formaldehyde actually naturally occurs in the human body and forests.
The formaldehyde portion (which allowed the foam to cure) was
often elevated. Formaldehyde is currently present in carpeting,
under pad, shoe soles, standard kitchen countertops, press board,
tobacco, plastic products, car exhaust, and is commonly found
in many products that we use today, (particularly those products
requiring bonding). Formaldehyde delivers an "off-gas" which has
a decay life over time. Hence, most of the "off-gas" of formaldehyde
occurs over the first couple of days to week and diminishes over
time. Formaldehyde levels after one week return to ambient house
levels. Of course, formaldehyde, in large doses, can be irritating
and even toxic.
The probability of UFFI "off-gassing" today is remote, given that
the last installation in Canada occurred in 1980. There are firms
that test for formaldehyde gas levels in your home and results
are ready usually within 7 - 10 days following.
It is a disclosure requirement in Ontario for Sellers to notify
Buyers about the presence of UFFI in the home, or in the event
that UFFI had formerly existed and was abated. Despite the low
chance of "off-gassing", my experience has been that homes insulated
with UFFI are more difficult to sell since many buyers in the
marketplace immediately reconsider the home solely on that basis.
There is a stigma attached to such properties, more based on perception
and fear, rather than scientific evidence. Of course, perception
can drive any type of market.
OTHER TYPES OF INSULATION4
One of the more recent types of insulation on the market, which
may be used in new construction or renovation (assuming the wall
studs are exposed), is a spray-in fiberglass insulation. The product
combines a much higher density of fiberglass (than earlier products)
with an adhesive material, and is sprayed into wall cavities,
creating a continuous insulation barrier, void of gaps and spaces.
The benefit of this product is that a greater R-value can be achieved
over traditional fiberglass batt insulation. This product is non-combustible.
The excess insulation is scraped away to create a flat surface
in order to apply drywall. After the product has cured and before
the drywall is installed, a vapor barrier is added. For more information
on this product, visit www.fiberglass.com.
One item to think about with respect to insulation is its combustibility.
Certainly, since fiberglass is essentially a glass-based product,
it is fire retardant.
An excellent on-line Insulation Comparison Chart can be found at the "Home Energy Saver" web site.
OTHER WAYS TO REDUCE YOUR ENERGY BILLS
Some of the least costly means of reducing your bills include:
1. installing an electronic programmable thermostat to modify
the temperature while you are at work or sleeping
2. removing caulking around exterior windows (particularly if
dried and cracked) and re-applying new latex expandable caulking
3. installing storm doors (please note that modern steel insulated
doors were never designed for exterior storm doors and may warp
due to excessive heat build-up between the steel insulated & storm
doors)
4. adding weather-stripping around exterior doors
5. insulating the space between floor joists in your basement
Now you can enjoy the comfort of the interior of your home, with
enhance energy savings!
